Georgia has been at the top of my list of places to visit for quite some time – and no, I’m not referring to “The Peach State.” The country of Georgia, is located at the crossroads of Asia and Europe, and is incredibly rich in history and culture. The beauty of this country far exceeded my expectations. The history, landscape, food, wine, and people all left a lasting impression, and five days here was simply not long enough! That being said, it provided a wonderful introduction to the country. Below is an outline of how we spent our time in Tbilisi, along with some helpful tips.
Tbilisi
We based ourselves in the Capital of Georgia, Tbilisi. We stayed 5 days and took 3 days trips to explore other parts of the country. We choose to stay near the Old Town and found a lovely place with our own terrace overlooking the city. Hotel “Tbilisi Tales” (Booking.com).
Our direct flight from London arrived extremely early (5:30 am), but thankfully for an extra 20GEL we were able to get a small room until ours was ready. So we squeezed in a small nap before exploring!
We began as we generally do with a free walking tour of the city, meeting in Freedom Square. The tour was approximately 3 hours and was the perfect intro into the city with some interesting and brief highlights of the history and sights along the way.
TIP – I would recommend having some cash on hand. Most places do take card, but there were a few times where only cash was accepted. There are several ATMs throughout the city, but many have a 400GEL withdrawal limit.
Places to See
Freedom Square
Dominated by the Freedom Monument, a tall column topped with a golden statue of St. George slaying the dragon, Freedom square marks Georgia’s long fight for independence. It is now surrounded by hotels, cafes and to my surprise several American fast-food chains (Dunkin Donuts, Wendys and Subway). I suppose you never know when you just need a frosty or a donut. Also fun fact – a scene from Fast and The Furious 9 was filmed here too.
Old Town
This historic heart of the city, with its narrow winding streets and colourful wooden balconies was incredibly charming. It dates back to the 5th century with the architecture blending medieval, neoclassical, Art Nouveau and even Soviet era buildings. I just loved winding ourselves through these streets! There’s no shortage of restaurants, wine bars, or shops to choose from.
Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theater
As we found our way through the Old Town, we stumbled upon this small square where tourists were all packed in. The Rezo Gabriadze clock tower with its disjointed stacked blocks is the focal point, and while it appears to be ancient and somewhat falling over, it was actually only constructed in 2010.
It was designed by the renowned Georgian artist and puppeteer Rezo Gabriadze, and adjacent to his marionette theatre. Every hour from the top of the tower, a golden angel emerges to ring the bell, and at noon and 7 PM, the “Circle of Life” puppet show unfolds inside. The small 80 seat marionette theatre also has weekly peformances, which you must get tickets for ahead of time. Gabriadze Theatre
Narikala Fortress
Narikala Fortress perched on a hill overlooking the city, is one of Tbilisi’s most iconic landmarks. This fortress dates back to the 4th century, and has a rich history reflective of Georgia’s complex past, with architectural additions made by the Arabs, Mongols, Ottomans and Georgians. The fortress is free to enter and can be reached by either a 20-minute steep hike up or a quick 2-minute cable car ride Park.
Unfortunately, the fortress was under renovation while we were there, so we didn’t get to explore inside, but were able to see it quite well from across the river from Metekhi Church.
Metekhi Church
Metekhi Church, officially known as the Church of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, is located on a small cliff overlooking the Kura River at the bottom of the Old Town.
This historic landmark is quite a site approaching from below across the river but also provides just as amazing views from the viewing platform around the church. It’s free to go inside, but women must cover their head and appropriate attire is required (no shorts or sleeveless tops). Dominating the corner outside the church, is a large statue, which is King Vakhtang Gorgasali, the founder of Tbilisi.
Georgian Bathhouses
Georgian Bathhouses are synonymous with Tbilisi, and in fact the city was named because of the hot springs found here. Legend has it that King Vakhtang Gorgasali discovered them while hunting, as he was so impressed by the warm waters he decided to found a city named Tbilisi (warm place).
Many of these bathhouses have distinctive brick doomed roofs visible above ground. There are several options to book, and for those who are more modest you can book your own private room.
Bridge of Peace
The Bridge of Peace is incrediblely eye-catching, linking the old town to the more modern parts of the city with its sleek glass-and-steel walkway. Opened in 2010, it was designed to symbolize Georgia’s journey from its historic roots into a brighter, more connected future.
The bridge is both beautiful and dramatic and I probably snapped 100 photos from every different vantage point where it was visible. Be sure to walk across the bridge into Rike Park to get some great views of the bridge with the old town in the background. And definitely don’t’miss seeing the bridge all lit up at night with over 1200 LED fixtures.
The bridge features four distinct lighting programs that run every hour which is an amazing visual experience.
Mother of Georgia
Mother of Georgia (Kartlis Deda ) is a monumental statue located on top of Sololaki Hill overlooking the city. She can be reached by either taking a steep hike up a stairway or a 5 min cable car ride from Rike Park. We opted for the cable car, not only to save our feet, but to enjoy the relaxing views up. Tickets are 2.5 GEL per person, and have to be purchased using a MetroMoney card, which costs an additional 2 GEL. We bought these at the ticket office in front of the cable car, but they did require cash only.
The statue was erected in 1958 to mark Tbilisi’s 1500th birthday. She stands 20 meters high brandishing a bowl of wine in one hand (to greet those who come as friends) and a sword in the other (to meet enemies, naturally).
TIP: It was quite hard to get any really decent photos of her when we got close, as seeing the front of her can only be done at a distance. However, there was a spot to walk down some stairs nearby that provided a better vantage point. Bonus we also found a small cafe *Grilisi Grill Bar) further down these stairs where we not only got great views of the statute and city but enjoyed a delicious glass of wine!
Tbilisi Holy Trinity Cathedral
Tbilisi Holy Trinity Cathedral, also known as Sameba, is one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world. It was built relatively recently, between 1995 and 2004, as a symbol of Georgia’s spiritual revival after the fall of the Soviet Union. Today it is a statement of national unity, religious freedom and a tribute to the country’s deep-rooted Christian heritage.
It’s a truly impressive structure and complex, and well worth the 30-minute walk from Rike Park to get here. A visit inside is free, but as all Orthodox churches, women must cover their heads, and all must adhere to a modest dress code. I’d recommend spending some time to explore the well-manicured grounds surrounding the church as well.
Chronicles Of Georgia
Chronicles of Georgia often referred to as the “Georgian Stonehenge,” is an incredibly striking monument that displays insights into Georgia’s past. There are 16 large, towering pillars, reaching heights of 30 to 35 meters. The upper sections of these columns depict scenes from Georgian history, including representations of kings, queens, and national heroes. The lower sections display significant events from the life of Jesus Christ.
We were incredibly lucky to arrive in the late afternoon with clear skies and very few visitors. The staircase leading up to the monument provides an epic setting and a great spot for photos!
Once at the top, walk right past the stones and there’s a breathtaking view over the Tbilisi Sea. It’s free to visit and is located approximately 15km from the city center, so best to get here by taxi. We visited as the last stop on one of our day tours as we came back into the city.
Food and drink
What can I say about Georgian food and wine, except that it is absolutely delicious. There was not a bad meal or even a mediocre glass of wine had! And as an added bonus it is extremely affordable.
The must try Georgian dishes include Khinkali (Traditional Georgian dumplings filled with different ingredients as well as a juicy broth inside); Badrijani, which was my favorite (classic Georgian appetizer made of eggplant rolls stuffed with walnut-garlic paste; Pkhali (another appetizer that often included Badrijani, as well as different veg such as beets or spinach combined with a walnut paste); and Khachapuri which is one of the most famous dishes (essentially bread stuffed or topped with melted cheese, often enriched with butter and egg, and baked to perfection.
Let’s just say I did not walk away from any meal still hungry!
And of course, there’s loads of wine bars and cellars tucked away in the side streets, serving up local wines.
Recommendations
SEE360° Restaurant Tbilisi – wonderful service, amazing food, great views and we even enjoyed some live music.
Kneina – stumbled upon this in the old town. Scored a great table outside enjoying the lovely warm weather! Hands down the best trout I’ve ever had and and their homemade wine was delicious!
Khinkali Collection – if you want incredible Khinkali, you have to visit here! We chose it primarily as it had a very good vegetarian and pescatarian selection of Khinkali!
Sakhli N11 – great spot for some drinks! Loved the outdoor seating area!
Grilisi Bar – located right by Mother of Georgia statue. The views of the city couldn’t be better. Enjoyed sitting out here for a few drinks.
Karalashvili Wine Cellar – do yourself a favor and book a tasting here! This family has over 7 generations of wine making to their name. We opted for the 5 tastings with local cheeses and the whole experience was a real treat! The wines were delicious, and we walked away wishing we had brought carryon luggage as I wanted to take so many of their wines home!
Wrap Up
I really fell in love with this city and cannot recommend it enough. It truly has everything – it’s safe and easy to get around; boasts an incredible food and wine scene; has an immense amount of history dating back to the 5th century; and let me just rave again about the wine!!
I’d recommend at least 2-3 days in Tbilisi to see everything, and to really indulge in the culture. You will also want to factor in additional time for days trips to places like Kakheti and Kazbegi. Check out my other blog and videos for more details and recommendations on the day trips we took while in Georgia.
