I was surprised to learn that Georgia has a history of winemaking that goes back thousands of years! Kakheti is the country’s premier wine-producing region and is often referred to as the “Cradle of Wine.” It has a wine making tradition spanning more than 8,000 years using the unique qvevri method.
The region is home to over 500 indigenous grape varieties, contributing to a very diverse selection of wines. Of course, it was mandatory for me to explore the region and sample some wines!
This is one of the most popular day trips from Tbilisi and there are several variations of it, from visiting multiple wineries and vineyards, to combining wine tasting with some historical sightseeing. We opted for the latter and enjoyed a full day trip to this beautiful region of Georgia.
David Gareja Monastery and Rainbow Mountains
Our tour’s first stop was the David Gareja Monastery and Rainbow Mountains. The drive is about 1.5 hours to the eastern Kakheti region. The monastery and valley are located near the Azerbaijan border. We actually saw some military guarding the border just behind the monastery.
David Gareja Monastery is a 6th century, stone-carved Orthodox complex situated in the semi-desert slopes of Mount Gareja. It was founded by St. David Garejeli, one of the Assyrian fathers who arrived in Georgia to spread Christianity. The monastery was a major center of religious and cultural life during the medieval period. The complex includes cells, churches, chapels, refectories, and living quarters carved into the rock face. Seeing this place was remarkable – it’s like a piece of architectural artwork.
We arrived early and were the first visitors, which made it even more special walking around and having this place to ourselves. Our visit included admiring the rooms carved into the sloped rockface, the well-preserved biblical frescos and seeing the tomb of the founder, St. David Garejeli. Be sure to walk up around the back of the monastery as the views from here are stunning. It not only captures the monastery but the colourful rainbow mountains as well.
From the parking lot out front you can also have a bit of a walk around and have this epic 360 view of the rainbow mountains and valley.
TIP: Arrive early and plan about 1 hour for a walk around. There is no fee to enter the complex. But do bring cash should you need to use the toilets. Unfortunately, as this sits on the border of Georgia and Azerbaijan, the use of drones was not allowed.
Wine Tasting at Gurami Papa’s Winery
Our next stop was at a small family run boutique winery called Gurami Papa’s Winery. While the winery is small, the tour and demonstration was really interesting and informative. They provided a wonderful explanation of the qvevri method of making wine (officially recognized by UNESCO as part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity) explaining how the fermenting was done in large egg-shaped clay vessels buried in the ground. They also showed examples of other tools used in the process. Quite different than the methods you might see in France or Italy!
The tasting included 6 different wines, 2 traditional Chachas, and a delicious board with small bites of cheeses, bread, olives and some Churchkhela (Georgian traditional dessert). Everything was delicious, so much so we walked away with several bottles of wine we purchased from them!!
TIP: Eat up! The tasting pours are big and with 2 samples of Chacha you may leave a bit tipsy, so don’t shy away from indulging or devouring the food provided!
Georgian lunch
As we made our way towards Sighnaghi we stopped along a small roadside market with stalls selling fresh vegetables, bread and other treats. Our guide bought us some delicious Imeruli cheese, fresh tomatoes, coriander and puri bread!
We also watched the local bakers make this bread, stretching it into long flat ovals (think canoe shape) and then slapping it on the walls of an open clay oven. When the bread is ready, they use a hooked tool to pry the bread off the wall. Watching is an experience in itself. Most importantly it made for a tasty sandwich and a lovely quick traditional lunch.
Bodbe Monastery of St. Nino
Just 2km from Signaghi we stopped to visit this significant Georgian Orthodox complex and major pilgrimage site. According to Georgian tradition, St. Nino, a 4th-century female missionary who played a pivotal role in bringing Christianity to Georgia, spent her final years in the Bodbe gorge and died there around 338-340 AD. Her tomb is located inside the Basilica to visit, and many people leave offerings on her grave and say prayers.
This beautiful monastery is set amongst tall cypress trees on a hillside overlooking the Alazani Valley. From here you can take in some incredible panoramic views of the surrounding vineyards, farmlands and distant Caucasus mountains. The entire complex is immaculately landscaped, and you’ll want to factor in some time to wander around and explore.
TIP: Entrance is free, but women must cover up their heads, shoulders and knees to enter the basilica.
Sighnaghi
Sighnaghi, the “City of Love”, was the final scheduled stop on our day trip. Historically, one of the crossroads along the Great Silk Road, the town is encircled by nearly 5km of stone walls, featuring 23 watchtowers and 5 gates named after local villages.
The “City of Love” name is attributed to its 24/7 registry office, allowing couples to marry at any time. As the city sits in the heart of Georgia’s wine-growing region, it also has several local wineries to visit.
If you are not so interested in seeing the other sites on this day tour, then booking a stay in Sighnaghi would be the way to go. That would provide enough time to really explore the city and visit several of the wineries. When I come back, I’m definitely doing this!!
We had some time to walk around the town’s cobblestone streets, climb the city walls, and admire the red-tiled roofs and ornate balconies throughout. My only regret was not having more time to explore. That being said we loved this stop, but be prepared to take countless photos as it has amazing views of the surrounding Alazani Valley.
Ninotsminda Church
Ninotsminda Church was a lovely unscheduled stop on our way back to Tbilisi. This church is dedciated to St. Nino and was originally built in the 5th century as one of the first four-dome basilicas in Georgia.
It is currently ruins, as the central dome and roof have collapsed, but large sections of the walls, arches, and the overall footprint remain. You can clearly see the original layout. You can also see some fragments of intricate relief work and window frames that exhibit some early Georgian Christian artistry.
The site is quiet and somewhat hidden, which made the place even more beautiful and special. This was a lovely last stop to close out our day. Highly recommend stopping here if you can!
Wrap Up
This day trip was one of the highlights of our time in Georgia. The history in this country and region is incredible and it was eye-opening to learn about the strong Christian heritage here!
Visiting the beautiful wine region and tasting some delicious wine was everything I hoped for. And I now have a new love for the orange Georgian wine, with Mtsvane being my favorite! Trying what is called “Georgian Snickers”, called Churchkhela was an experience too! This treat is made by stringing together walnuts on a thread, dipping this string repeatedly into a thickened mixture of grape juice, flour and some sugar and then hanging to dry. Don’t miss trying this – it is super yummy!
There is a lot to see in one day, and if you are short on time in Georgia then this day trip is a great way to squeeze a lot in! I can’t wait to come back and spend some more time in Kakheti!!
