The Bay of Pigs is an area full of unique habitats and diverse wildlife , not only being part of the Zapata Swamp, which is one of the largest wetlands in the Caribbean, but also part of the Ciénaga de Zapata National Park, a UNESCO biosphere reserve.
I imagine most people immediately think of it as nothing more than a little skirmish between Cuba and America that took place here in the early 1960’s. And yes, the area was a key battle site in the revolution and part of our decision to stop here on our Cuban adventure. But we also chose to stay because we wanted to experience the diverse nature and the great snorkeling and diving opportunities.
Getting Here
The Bay of Pigs is about 160 kilometers (100 miles) southeast of Havana, and approximately a 2.5-to-3-hour drive. We took a shared taxi from Vinales, which meant that we had to first drive back to Havana, which was around 180 kilometers (112 miles) and 3 hours driving. Then we had to switch cars in Havana, and embark on the 2nd leg of the journey – a further 2.5-hour drive. So in total, the longest car journey on our trip by far.
This change over is normal practice when using shared taxis, so they can reorganise the passengers based on their destination and ensure cars are carrying as many passengers as possible (unless you have forked out for a private car hire). The cost of the drive was $35 per person, which we paid in full to the first driver when we stopped for the changeover. I assume that somehow the first driver and the 2nd driver split the money at a later stage, but just wanted to point out that you won’t and shouldn’t pay two different times.
Where to Stay
The Bay of Pigs has two main areas where you can choose to stay, which are Playa Larga and Playa Girón. Personally, we choose Playa Larga due to its proximity to some natural wildlife areas and the more tranquil beach setting. If your primary purpose for coming to the Bay of Pigs is to go diving, Playa Girón might be the better bet as many of the popular dive sights are located closer to this area.
Casa Tu Familia Cubano
Our casa was in a prime location in Playa Larga with a very short 3-minute walk to the beach (Playa Caleton). We had a private room that had 2 beds, small kitchen space and a separate private bathroom. Located on the second floor at the back of the house was a lovely outside patio with great views of the ocean.
The hostess Mileidy was so friendly, and while she didn’t speak much English and us not much Spanish, she was so patient and helpful that with a few hand gestures and some slow speaking we all figured it out in the end. She was an incredible cook as well, so much so that we had dinner here twice out of the three nights we stayed. Being pescatarians, we opted for fish, which was always something fresh that her husband had just caught that day. Let me just say by far some of the best fish I’ve ever had, and that is no exaggeration. She also made this fresh pumpkin vegetable soup that was delicious.
I would recommend taking the opportunity to have food at your casa if it is offered, because 9 times out of 10 it will be better than anything you could get out at a restaurant.
Sendero Enigma de la Rocas
This is a scenic hiking trail located in the Ciénaga de Zapata National Park. The park offers guided tours along the trails to explore the different ecosystems, cool geological formations, and the amazing biodiversity found here. One of the animals that can be found in abundance, albeit all hiding under rocks, are the land crabs. Each year during the rainy season there is a large annual migration of these crabs as they make their way to the ocean to lay their eggs. If you happen to be here during this time (April & May), you could possibly catch this amazing sight where millions of these crabs make their way toward the coast. Definitely not advisable to drive near their migration paths as it’s been known to damage the cars trying to navigate through them.
Other indigenous animals located here, which unfortunately we were not able to catch a glimpse of are the Cuban crocodile as well as the world’s smallest bird (bee hummingbird).
As we made our way through this trail, we came to a small freshwater sinkhole (cenote) where we had the opportunity to get in and take a swim in the cool clear water. This was a welcome break as walking the trail at this time of year (November) was quite warm and humid! Advisable to wear your swimsuit under your clothes, as the area to get in is quite small and doesn’t leave much room for changing, much less leaving your belongings out.
Post a quick dip we had a bit more time to explore the trail before finishing up with the guide bringing you back to the entrance. The cost here was $15 per person that we paid to the guide as we left.
Cueva de los Peces
Just a short drive from Playa Girón, and only 300 meters from Enigma de la Roca is a top tourist spot. It’s Cuba’s deepest saltwater cave, with a depth of around 70 meters (230 feet). For an entrance fee of 200 Cuban Pesos, you get to take a swim in this natural pool.
Located in Ciénaga de Zapata wetlands, which is a UNESCO biosphere reserve, the natural pool is surrounded by lush tropical vegetation, and should you need refreshments, there is even an onsite bar and restaurant. I recommend wearing water shoes/sandals here as there is not any smooth areas to get in and out of the water. Although considered one of the best places in Cuba for snorkeling and diving because of its unique geological structure and the chance to see various species of fish, the day we were there the fish must have been hiding as we really only saw a small handful.
After a brief swim here, we left and literally walked right across the street to the ocean. The water was crystal clear and not only could you visibly see a large abundance of fish, when you got in the water you were surrounded by them. Again water/shoes sandals are key here given the rocky areas where you would get in and out of the water. We were surrounded by hundreds of Sergeant Majors, and snorkeling around we saw many parrot fish as well. This was a great area to snorkel and see all the beautiful fish that live in and around the coral reefs found here.
We could have easily spent another hour here snorkeling and enjoying the sun, but we were on a schedule with our hired taxi driver for the day.
Museo Girón
This is a small museum located about 15-minute drive from Playa Larga, located in Playa Girón. The museum is dedicated to the events of the Bay of Pigs Invasion in 1961 and is a key historical site for understanding the Cuban Revolution and Cold War history. Entrance to the museum is 50 Cuban pesos, and I would recommend paying in Pesos. You can walk around the museum fairly quickly, and unless you can speak/read Spanish I would advise using something like Google Lens, where you can aim your camera at the text and it will translate it for you. This is what we did on majority of the informational signs found throughout.
Outside the museum you see an airplane, which is a B-26 Invader, used by the CIA during the Bay of Pigs invasion in 1961, as well as a T-34 tank used by the Cubans. There is also a small monument commemorating the Cuban fighters who participated in this battle.
Definitely worth a visit if you’re interested in the history of the Cuban revolution.
Cuchi El Pescador
Cuchi El Pescador is the number one restaurant in terms of ratings for Playa Larga so we had to pay a visit, especially as it was just a short 15-minute walk from our casa. Unless you eat fish or meat it’s really tough to find any other options in Cuba. This restaurant is known for their seafood, and had some really delicious lobster, fish and crab! Everything was fresh, the food was great, and even better service. We had a lovely table upstairs where we enjoyed a drink and a view of the sunset.
Other Day Trip Options
As we really only had two full days in Playa Larga, I don’t feel we were able to make the most of all the activities the area is known for. A few other options especially for the nature lovers would be:
Criadero De Cocodrilos – a Cuban crocodile breeding farm located near Playa Larga dedicated to the conservation and breeding of the Cuban crocodile, an endangered species found only in Cuba. A visit here and you can learn about the breeding process, see the crocodiles in various stages of development, and even watch feeding sessions or interact with the animals in a safe, controlled environment.
Bird Watching Tours – within Ciénaga de Zapata National Park there is rich diversity of habitats, that make it home to numerous endemic and migratory species. The park is home to over 171 bird species, including 28 endemics unique to Cuba. So, an obvious choice for some bird watching. Tours can be arranged through your casa or through tour companies such as Chino Zapata Cuba Bird Tours or CubaGroupTour.com.
Diving Tours – Diving is a main attraction in the Bay of Pigs as it’s home to some of the best-preserved coral reefs in the Caribbean. The waters are crystal clear often offering visibility of 30 meters or more, and the area has some incredible dive sites with shallow reefs, underwater caves and shipwrecks. It’s a great spot from beginners to advanced divers. This is definitely something I wish we could have squeezed in, as everyone we talked to said the diving was just incredible. Diving 4 Cuba, Cuba Diving Now, Varadero Diving Tour, are just a few companies you can check out for diving adventures, but as always, your casa will also be able to help you arrange something.
Take Aways
Our time in Playa Larga was wonderful and the whole area is incredibly beautiful with the crystal clear water, lush vegetation and white sandy beaches. We stayed three nights here and while we did get a great intro in the area, I wish we had one more day as we would have definitely squeezed in some diving and maybe a bit of bird watching if possible.
Our Casa was able to help us arrange our day trip and squeeze in as many things as possible. They arranged a taxi that took us to each of our chosen stops, waiting for us while we explored, before taking us to the next destination. We paid $30 to the driver and he was with us from 8:30am – 3:30pm (very good value!)
My biggest tip here is bring bug spray, and some good antihistamines in case you are prone to mosquito bites, like me. I did have bug spray, but getting in and out of the water meant that I had to reapply each time, and I definitely wasn’t vigilant enough about it and I did suffer from an overwhelming amount of mosquito bites. We didn’t bring antihistamines with us unfortunately, but thank goodness a fellow traveler in our casa had some and was so lovely enough to share with me!
