It’s been nearly 13 years since my last visit to this beautiful city, and my overdue return captivated me even more and I fell in love with Copenhagen all over again.
It’s hard not to be charmed exploring the sights of the capital of Denmark, with it’s mixture of architecture that dates from the medieval time through to baroque, neo-classical and present day modern and
contemporary.
The streets are wide and clean, the food is incredible, and the people are so happy and friendly. I can now understand why Copenhagen is consistently rated as one of the happiest cities to live. With three days to explore, I made sure to plan ahead of time to maximise my visit.
Getting Here and Around
Copenhagen is a short flight from London – less than 2 hours. The main international airport is Kastrup (CPH), and is well connected to the city center, with several very good transport options.
You can take a bus or take the metro (leaves from terminal 3) which is only about 15 minutes. You will need to buy a ticket from the kiosks for the metro, as unfortunatey there is no contactless. If you want to buy tickets for the bus you can buy them from a ticket kiosk or alternatively download an app called DOT and buy tickets through the app. It’s really easy to use and definitely worth downloading. I will say that at no point in time did anyone check our tickets, nor did we have to scan them anywhere, but you would be fined should inspectors ever board.
For getting around the city I would also advise the citymapper app as it provides directions and various travel options (walking, bus, bike, metro).
The city is walkable but is a wonderful biking city. There are bike lines everywhere and no shortage of bikes or electric bikes to hire. We used the
Lime app and used their electric bikes several times for some of the longer distances. Our hotel also had bikes we could have used, and I think most hotels also have this option.
Day 1
Bike Tour
Copenhagen is one of the most bike friendly cities in the world and has a well developed infrastructure for biking with dedicated paths and lanes, and even some cycle super highways. So I figured what better way to get an introduction to the city than by taking a guided bike tour.
We booked a 3 hour excursion through Tropical Bikes . This tour is a very safe and leisurely paced tour, and suits all ages. The guides are very knowledgeable and helpful, making everyone aware of the upcoming stops, the rules of the road for bikers, and provide enough time at
each stop to provide some history, information and time for photos.
Nyboder
Nyboder is a historic district in Copenhagen, known for it’s rows of picturesque yellow houses built by King Christian IV in the early 17th century. Originally constructed as naval barracks to house sailors and their families, the neighborhood has since transitioned into a residential area over the years, while still preserving it’s original character and architecture.
Today, Nyboder is a sought-after area to live in Copenhagen with it’s proximity to the city center and it’s traditional heritage.
Little Mermaid
The Little Mermaid statue is perched on a rock at the Langelinie promenade. It’s quite small and you might easily miss it, but the crowds of people surronding give it away.
The statue was inspired by Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tale and was unveiled in 1913. Since then the statue has unfortunately been the victim of mutiple instances of vandalism, losing her head a few times, her arm removed, being covered in paint, and even the entire statue being blown off her rock with explosives.
Despite the attempts to damage this beloved icon of the city, she remains in tact (albeit not quite the original version) and is the most visited tourist attraction in Copenhagen.
Kastellet (The Citadel)
This star shaped fortress, built under the reign of King Christian IV, is one of the best preserved fortresses in Northern Europe. We biked through this former military location on our tour briefly, but came back afterwards to spend a bit more time exploring the beautiful grounds.
The fortress is free to enter and includes some great walking and running trails – and be sure to check out the historic windmill.
Nyhavn
Nyhavn is the vibrant and colourful waterfront district of Copenhagen. It was constructed in the 17th century by King Christian V as a gateway from the sea to the inner city, and was a bustling commerical port.
The port is now a lively tourist hub and the streets are lined with bars, cafes and restaurants, set among the iconic colourful 17th and 18th-century townhouses. There are several historic wooden ships that are permanent fixtures along the waterfront too. The boats and colourful houses create a picturesque atmosphere with lots of charm and crowds!
Nyhavn is always busy and finding a spot at any of the cafes and bars lining the waterfront can be difficult. I can’t comment on whether any of the restaurants or cafes found here are any good, as both times I’ve visited they were too busy to get a table.
However, we did want to enjoy the lively atmosphere, so we found shops on the side streets that sold take away drinks. This was actually a really great option as we were able sit by the harbour, listen to some live music and enjoy drinks which were definitely a lot cheaper than the cafes!
Tivoli Gardens
Tivoli Gardens, located in the heart of Copenhagen, is a magical and enchanting destination that combines a historic amusement park with beautifully landscaped gardens and lively entertainment. Opened in 1843, it’s one of the oldest amusement parks in the world, and has inspired other famous amusement parks, including Disneyland.
The park does cost to enter, and we purchased tickets online in advance and selected the entrance fee as well as unlimited ride options. You can simply buy an entrance ticket without rides and just explore the gardens, restaurants and bars. But, if you enjoy an amusement park I would recommend adding on the unlimited rides.
It’s not a huge park, but large enough to hold several roller coasters, a music venue, mutliple restaurants and even a small lake. We came at about 6pm and I thought that time was perfect as it gave us plenty of time to go on several rides, stop for dinner and drinks, and stay to enjoy the sound and light show that happens each day after dark over the lake.
Besides the light show, seeing Tivioli all lit up at night is pretty magical and not to be missed.
Day 2
Boat Tour
I highly recommend taking a boat tour in Copenhagen as it offers a unique and picturesque perspective of the city’s landmarks. As well as being a relaxing experience, you’ll also get some guided commentary on the city’s history and culture.
There are several options on types and length of tours, so whether you want a short one hour overview or a laid back boozy adventure there will be no shortage of choices to suit you. We booked the 90 minute open top tour that was perfect and left from Nyhavn.
Lunch recommendations
For quick and tasty food options check out The Bridge Street Kitchen. This is located across the Inner Harbour Bridge (Inderhavsbroen) between Christianshavn and Nyhavn.
The area not only has some world class street food, but is a cool area to enjoy views of the water. We had one of the best vegan burgers ever from Gasoline Grill.
Christiansborg Palace
This former royal palace turned seat of the Danish government is located on the islet of Slotsholmen in the center of the city and is currently housing the Danish Parliament (Folketinget), the Prime Minister’s Office, and the Supreme Court.
The current palace is the third iteration on the site. It has burned down three times, with the first dating back to the 12th century.
The palace chapel and the tower are free to visit, with the tower actually providing the tallest viewpoint in the city. They only allow 6 people at one time on the elevator up, so the queue can be long if you don’t arrive early. But if you don’t fancy braving the Church of Our Saviour, then this is a great way to get incredible views of Copenhagen.
If you want to explore further, tickets can be purchased to explore the Royal Reception Rooms, the Parliament Chamber, and the ruins of earlier castle structures underneath the Palace.
https://www.kongehuset.dk/en/palaces-and-the-royal-yacht/christiansborg-palace/#
Christiania
Christiania is a self-proclaimed autonomous community established in 1971 on an abandoned military base. Christiania opearates under it’s own rules and regulations completely independent of the Danish government and has banned cars within much of its area.
It’s known for its alternative lifestyle, environmental focus, and vibrant artistic scene. Despite controversies over drugs and legal status, it’s still a popular place to visit, with shops, bars and cafes to check out. And from my experience, it felt safe and welcoming too, with many other tourists around.
Church of Our Saviour
The Church of Our Saviour, built in the late 17th century, is renowned for its unique spiral tower with an external staircase of 400 steps, offering breathtaking city views.
It is a prominent landmark in the skyline topped with a golden globe and a statue of Christ. This is a must do while you are in Copenhagen IF you are not afraid of heights.
You will need to book tickets in advance as there are limited visitors allowed per time slot, due to the confined space around the tower.
Trust me walking up this was enough to manage, I did not want to deal with lots of other people trying to pass or share the small space with me. My hands were tightly gripping the rail!!
The fear and exhilaration of climbing the steps around the outside of this tower with incredible 360 degree views of the city is hard to describe.
The Church of Our Saviour is still used today and has been a central place of worship for over three centuries. It played an important role during the reign of King Christian V, who had it constructed to enhance his influence, promote his vision for Copenhagen, and ensure his legacy in Danish history.
If like us, your visiting timeslot happens to be raining, you can easily rebook another time and get a refund.
Dinner and drink recommendations
Christianshavns Cafe
We stumbled across this restaurant after our tour at the Church of Our Saviour. We primiarly choose it due it’s location right on the canal with a table next to the water. The menu also looked great so we decided why not. The service and food here was phenonmenal. I can’t say enough about the food – the Norwegian scallops and the fried cod were mouth-wateringly delicious!
https://www.baadudlejningen.dk/
Godt Øl
On our walk back we stumbled across this very cool and cosy beer bar in the old Medievil town. Even if you are not a beer fan they did have other drinks on offer.
https://xn--godtl-yua.dk/
Day 3
Amalienborg Palace
Nestled in the heart of Copenhagen, is the residence of the Danish Royal Family. The palace complex consists of four grand rococo-style buildings surrounding an octagonal courtyard.
You can literally walk around these buidlings and come as close to knocking on the door, although the palace guards would probably stop you in your attempt. If you want to go inside you can visit the museum and explore the lavish interiors adorned with ornate furnishings, exquisite artworks, and royal artifacts that span centuries of Danish monarchy.
Don’t miss the changing of the guard ceremony, a centuries-old tradition, that takes place in the courtyard daily at 12:00. I would recommend to arriving a bit early as it does get crowded and if you are short
like me, it makes watching a bit more difficult.
https://www.kongernessamling.dk/en/amalienborg/
Frederik's Church
Located due west behind Amalienborg Palace, this Evangelical Lutheran church is popularly known as The Marble Church.
It forms the focal point of the Frederiksstaden district, and was intended to commemorate the 300th anniversary of the coronation of the first Danish monarch from the House of Oldenburg. The idea was to serve as a grand symbol of the King’s power, the glory of the Danish monarchy, and the prosperity of the Danish state.
The church features one of the largest church domes in Scandinavia, which you can climb up for some panoramic views of the city. If you don’t want to pay the fee to climb the dome, visiting the interior is free and definitely worth a quick step inside to see the beautiful baroque decor.
https://www.marmorkirken.dk/admission
Rosenborg Castle
This well preserved Renaissance castle was built by King Christian IV in the early 17th century and served as a royal residence for only 80 years. The castle now houses the Danish Crown Jewels and a remarkable collection of royal artifacts. It is surrounded by the beautiful King’s Garden, which is Copenhagen’s oldest park. My first trip to Copenhagen I did not get the chance to visit the castle, so this was one of the top things on my itineary for my return visit.
The castle interiors were beautiful and full of an incredible amount of art, furniture, and tapestries from the Danish monarchy. Seeing the crown jewels was the icing on the cake.
I highly recommend a visit, and as it’s quite small you won’t need any longer than an hour! But if you don’t make it inside, do not miss a walk through the immaculately landscaped King’s Garden. It’s a great spot for a picnic, a leisurely stroll or apparently a wedding, which we happened to witness on our visit.
https://www.kongernessamling.dk/en/rosenborg/
Ophelia Plads
Feeling like we had ticked the boxes on the sights we wanted to see we headed to Ophelia Plads, which is the waterfront area adjacent to the National Theatre. It was a beautiful sunny day and we wanted to sit, soak it in and enjoy the views of the water. There were several food trucks, a few bar opens and even toilet facilities.
We found some comfortable deck chairs, munched on some yummy veggie tacos and enjoyed a cold drink and sat and relaxed – which is a concept I don’t always experience on some of my whirlwind trips.
Time for Metallica?
If seeing this beautiful city wasn’t enough, we topped the long weekend off with a Metallica concert in Parken Stadium. Yes I could have gotten tickets to see them at home, but I thought it would be even more exciting going to see one of my favorite bands in one of my favorite destinations.
Conclusion
Copenhagen is such a beautiful, historical, and friendly city that I could easily see myself living here. I will say that yes like other Scandinavian cities, it is pricey, but here I would say that you are getting what you are paying for. The food we had was incredible, from the quick simple burgers we had from a food truck to mouth watering fresh fish at one of the higher end restaurants.
The city is clean, easy to navigate and the people are so friendly that it’s infectious! I loved my second visit and can’t wait to plan another return to this Danish Dream city!!
