It had been well over a decade since my first trip to Istanbul, so with a UK bank holiday coming up, I decided a return to this vibrant, bustling city was in order. We had 4 full days in this former capital of both the Byzantine and Ottoman Empires. I left feeling like I saw so much with a much deeper understanding and appreciation of this historical city.
We squeezed in a lot of the main sites, but left plenty of time to relax and enjoy some of the many rooftop bars, incredible restaurants and experience the blend of ancient and modern cultures. Below is our day by day itinerary that may help you when planning your trip to Istanbul.
Getting around
The city has a pretty great transport system with trams that take you all across the city. We used the city mapper app which is a great way to navigate to and from different areas. The tram and buses take contactless payment/ApplePay/GooglePay which makes things very easy. We did pre-book a taxi using Booking.com to and from the airport, in order to avoid the stress and haggling of prices with the taxi drivers, which I would highly recommend.
Money
Most places in Istanbul take card and use contactless, but it was helpful to have some cash for those smaller shops and vendors that don’t take anything else. There is no shortage of cash machines found in the city so you will have no trouble finding one.
Day 1 - morning
Hagia Sophia
Hagia Sophia is one of the most visited sites in Istanbul, and with so many tourists that come to visit the city I would highly advise booking tickets online and get the option to skip the queue if possible.
I would also suggest getting here as soon as the mosque opens to beat the huge tour groups that flock here. There is a dress code that must be adhered to when visiting, which means women must wear skirts/pants below their knees, shoulders and head must be covered. Men must wear long trousers and shirts with sleeves. If you do arrive without the appropriate dress, there are coverings that are provided by the mosque for you to put on before going in.
Hagia Sophia has a long history and was constructed during the 6th century, originally built as an Orthodox Christian basilica during the Byzantine Empire. It later became one of the most significant mosques in the Ottoman Empire after the conquest of Constantinople in 1453. It’s hard not to miss it’s massive dome, with a diameter of 31 meters (102 feet), one of the largest in the world when built, which was considered an architectural and engineering masterpiece for its time.
Incredibly, Hagia Sophia has been resilient and withstood numerous earthquakes over its 1,500-year history, contributing to it’s longevity and preservation as a historical and architectural marvel.
Basilica Cistern
Basilica Cistern was one of my favorite things to see, and again I advise to book your tickets online and choose the skip the queue option. You can buy tickets with a guided tour or with an audio guide option. As we booked online and chose skip the queue option, we literally walked right in vs. the long line that extended well around the corner from the entrance.
The Cistern was built in the 6th century AD during the reign of Byzantine Emperor Justinian I. It was constructed to store and supply water to the nearby Hagia Sophia and other imperial buildings. This subterranean site provides a hauntingly beautiful ambiance with dim lighting that changes colour from green to red and yellow showcasing the 336 marble columns arranged in 12 rows, creating reflections on the shallow pool of water below. On some of the columns you will find intricate carvings and decorations, inluding Medusa heads. There are also several statues and art installations that we passed walking along the raised platforms. My favorite of these was the medusa statue in the corner that when the lighting is right creates an eerie shadow on the wall.
The cistern gets very crowded and at times you have to wait for several tour groups to pass to even take a picture, so the earlier you visit the better. But the cistern is also open quite late at night which is another altenative to visiting and missing the large crowds.
Day 1 - afternoon
Bosporus Cruise
Taking a boat tour on the Bosphorus in Istanbul offers stunning views of the city’s skyline, historic landmarks, and modern architecture, all while cruising between two continents (Europe and Asia).
There are several options to choose from including sunset tours, dinner and dancing cruises and extended tours stopping off on the Asia side of the Bosporus for a quick walk around.
We chose to take a 90 minute tour from Eminönü, booking the day of and paid the equivalent of £5 each. We were lucky with the weather and sat outside on the boat deck enjoying the cruise. We passed by significant sites like Topkapi Palace, some Ottoman mansions, and impressive bridges, showcasing the city’s rich history and cultural diversity. The natural beauty of the waterway, combined with the busy maritime traffic, made this a truly unique experience.
Yeni Cami Mosque
Yeni Cami mosque is hard not to miss when in the Eminönü quarter. We stopped in after we got off the boat tour, and were throughly impressed with how beautiful the interior was, with it’s luxurious gold and marble elements as well as mother-of-pearl inlays, accentuating the mosque’s windows and doors. I felt this was quite a contrast to the interior of Hagia Sophia.
Yeni Cami was the last mosque built by the Ottoman sultans and is strategically located in the Eminönü district near the Spice Bazaar and Golden Horn. It is a key religious site and iconic landmark central to the city’s social and commercial life.
Rooftop bars
After a lot of walking and taking in the sites, we were long over due for a relaxing spot to stop and enjoy a cold beverage. We found Luco Restaurant at Raymond Hotel. This lovely rooftop restaurt had great views of Hagia Sopia, and the Bosphorous.
For dinner we made reservations at 360 Mezze Restaurant, another rooftop restaurant with great views of the city and Bosporus as well. We specifically chose this restuarant as they had good pescatarian/vegetarian options. They had a live DJ playing some chill music during dinner as well. Definitely recommend!
Day 2 - Morning
Dolmabahçe Palace
For Dolmabahçe Palace, we booked tickets online again choosing the skip the queue option. Arriving earlier is better to avoid the big tour groups that seemed to pour in around 10:30 am.
A visit here includes a tour of the grounds, the state rooms and the harem, which is where the Sultan and his family lived.
This palace located on the European shore of the Bosporus in Istanbul, served as the main administrative centre of the Ottoman Empire. Built between 1843 and 1856 , the construction marked the transition from traditional Ottoman architecture to a blend of European styles. The palace is massive, and includes 285 rooms, 46 halls, and 68 toilets, as well as its expansive gardens and stunning waterfront location.
Historically significant as the residence of the last Ottoman sultans, Dolmabahçe Palace has one of the largest and most magnificent chandeliers in the world. While there are many incredible chandeliers throughout the palace, this one is found in the Palace’s Ceremonial Hall, and is a 4.5-ton Bohemian crystal masterpiece, that was a gift from Queen Victoria, featuring over 750 lamps.
You technically are not allowed to take pictures inside, but we managed a sneaky few.
Lunch and drink stops
After our 2 hour visit exploring the palace we wanted to find a small place for lunch. Dukkan Galata is a lovely small restaurant with some delicious vegetarian options. On a side street away from the throngs of people in Galata, it was perfect place for lunch and some turkish tea.
And what better post lunch activity than a stop for wine. Vigneron Wine House is also tucked on a side street and had some great outdoor seating as well as wine selection. we enjoyed this place so much we made a return for post dinner drinks as well and loved the cosy interior and tucked away wine rooms.
Day 2 - Afternoon
Galata Tower
The Galata Tower is a medieval stone tower that dates back to the 6th century. The present day tower was reconstructed in 1348 by the Genoese during the Byzantine era. Its strategic location made it an important observation and defense point for centuries, offering panoramic views of the city and waterways.
We walked here thinking we would buy tickets and walk to the top for the views of the Golden Horn and the Bosporus. The tickets to visit the tower are EUR30 and had long queues to buy tickets and an even longer queue to get inside.
We decided not to wait and opted to go to a rooftop restaurant literally next door to it, where we had great seats with a view of the tower itself and beyond. Firuzende Galata was not only an incredible spot for rooftop views, it had a happy hour deal on drinks and San Sebastian cheesecake. Would definitely recommend this alternative way to see Galata tower!
Istiklal Street and Taksim Square
Walking down this 1.4km street from Galata to Taksim Square is equivalent to walking down Oxford street in London or Times Square in NY, in terms of the sheer amount of people. There is no shortage of stores and restaurants found along and off this street, but be warned you will need to either be patient or play a bit of tetris if you are in hurry walking along this incredibly busy street. The street starts in Galata and empties out into Taksim Square, which is a major cultural and political hub.
To be honest if you’re short on time, this is something you could happily skip.
Dinner
We decided to treat ourself to one fancy dinner while on holiday and booked Yuca, which is located in The Halich Hotel Istanbul Karakoy inBeyoğlu. The views were spectacular, and the service and food were equally as incredible.
Day 3 - morning
Sultanahmet Square
It’s hard not to miss this square as you make your way to Hagia Sofia, the Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace. It’s pretty incredible imaging what it was like, as it was formerly the ancient Byzantine hippodrome, hosting chariot races and other public events during the Roman and Byzantine eras. It played a significant role in the city’s social and political life for centuries. The Obelisk of Theodosius , dating back to the 15th century BC, is a prominent feature and one of the oldest monuments in Istanbul. The square is a now a vibrant cultural hub, surrounded by various museums, mosques, and historical landmarks, that offer a glimpse into the city’s rich history and cultural diversity.
Blue Mosque
Entrance to the Blue Mosque is free, and opens at 8:30, which is the best time to arrive before the mass arrival of tourists.
Again appropriate dress is required, but can be provied by the mosque as you enter if your clothing doesn’t fit the dress code.
The Blue Mosque gets its name from the stunning interior decoration featuring over 20,000 handmade Iznik tiles in vibrant shades of blue. These exquisite tiles, with their intricate floral and geometric patterns, cover the walls, domes, and pillars, creating an awe-inspiring and serene atmosphere.
What I thought was also interesting is that the mosque has six minarets, instead of the traditional four, and additionally, the mosque has a cascading series of domes and semi-domes, with the central dome standing at an impressive height of 43 meters (141 feet). This design was meant to outshine the nearby Hagia Sophia, showcasing the architectural prowess of the Ottoman Empire.
The mosque has been a active place of worship for over 400 years and remains an important religious and cultural landmark in Turkey.
Topkapi Palace
Topkapi Palace can be found beside the entrance to Hagia Sofia. We purchased tickets through the Get your Guide app, which included the entrance and an audio guide tour ahead, selecting a specific time slot. We had to meet a representive just outside the palace entrance, who escorted us in. Every entrance to the palace must be led by an a licensed representative.
We actually found the audio guide a bit too detailed, so maybe something to dip in and out of.
The palace and grounds are expansive as there are 4 courtyards, and several halls and even the Harem quarters you can visit. It was extremely crowded on our visit and we had to queue to visit these rooms. I would plan for a minimum of two hours here to walk through and see most things.
The palace was the primary residence and administrative headquarters of the Ottoman sultans for nearly 400 years. Built in the mid-15th century by Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror, it showcases exquisite Ottoman architecture and houses a vast collection of treasures, including the famed Topkapi Dagger and the Spoonmaker’s Diamond.
Day 3 - Afternoon
Süleymaniye Mosque
Süleymaniye Mosque is situated in the Süleymaniye neighborhood of the Fatih district, near the Golden Horn. Getting here is a little bit of an uphill trek, but totally worth it as the views from here are beautiful.
Completed in 1557 under the reign of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent, the mosque’s grand dome, elegant minarets, and spacious courtyard reflect both Islamic and Byzantine influences. The complex also includes a hospital, school, library, and baths, showcasing its historical role as a community hub.
The Column of Constantine
The Column of Constantine (The Burnt Column) is something you might easily walk past and ignore but it has a fascinating history.
It was erected in the 4th century by Constantine the Great, in the central square of Constantinople. It is said that parts of the Holy Cross of Jesus, the ax of Noah and the rod of the Prophet Moses, with which he struck water from a rock, were walled in the foundations of this column, all brought into the city by the Emperor himself. The column, which was burned many years later, thus providing it’s current name, is still standing on the former square of Constantinum.
Drinks and dinner
After being thorougly immersed in our cultural exploits for the day, we were in need of a drink, and of course another roof top bar. We decided to head back to the area we were staying and randomly stumbled across Aprilis Hotel, which had a some great views of the Mamara sea, the most comfortable swing chair, and we got to enjoy the entire rooftop to ourself. Drink prices were not too bad either!
Hidden Garden – less than 5 minutes from our rooftop bar pit stop, we found this really wonderful restaurant. It has a relaxing and ambiant outdoor garden area, and we really appreciated the excellent service and delicious food. The menu had reasonable prices and we enjoyed the complimentry tea and baklava post dinner 🙂
Day 4
Büyükada Island
After 3 incredibly hectic days in Istanbul, we decided to have a more relaxing 4th day by visiting one of the Princes Islands found in the Mamara Sea. We made our way to Kabatas Ferry terminal and took a ferry across to Büyükada Island, which at only 2.1 sq meters is actually the largest of the Princes island.
Renting a bike is the best way to explore the island and there is no shortage of places to rent from. Motorized vehicles are not allowed on the island, which only adds to the islands charm and relaxing vibes. The island offers a serene escape and stunning views of the Sea of Marmara, charming Ottoman mansions, pine forests and scenic trails.
Our first stop was at Dilburnu Nature Park, which offered numerous spots clearly created for Instagrammers. We passed by several cute cafes, and enjoyed exploring the city center indulging in sweet treats from a local bakery, as well as some of the best pizza I’d had in a long time. Madam Sofias has outdoor dining with views of the harbor and was a lovely place to relax, enjoy a beer and pizza.
With its unique cultural blend and tranquil atmosphere, Büyükada is an ideal destination for some relaxation and rejuvenation.
Grand Bazaar
We capped off our trip with one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world, dating back to the 15th century. The Grand Bazaar is a vast complex with over 60 streets and alleyways, housing more than 4,000 shops, restaurants, and workshops.
Visiting the Grand Bazaar is an essential part of the Istanbul experience. Navigating it is a sensory overload, and it was hard not to be drawn in by the beautiful rugs, jewelry, lamps, purses, and the shop vendors persuasive sale tactics.
I had to talk myself out of buying some very reasonably priced “louis vuitton” bags. I’ll give them credit though, their replicas are pretty good! If shopping is your thing than good luck getting out of here without emptying your wallet.
Key takeaways
There was only so much we could pack in during our four days. However, I felt the amount of time we had in Istanbul was just enough to really get a deep appreciation of the significant historical events that took place in this city, and observe the transformation of the city throughout the centuries through our tours of the different sites.
My key take aways from our visit were:
- The food in Istanbul is incredible, and no matter where you go you will have a delicious meal, so while we booked ahead I would say it is not necessary unless there is someone you specifically want to go.
- Book ahead and get to the sites early. It’s very busy with thousands of visitors, so you will want to plan accordingly to avoid large crowds.
- Public transport was really good and easy to use, so download CityMapper app and avoid taking taxis if possible.
- Take time to relax and enjoy the many rooftop resturants and view points throughout the city.
- Make sure you try the dondurma icecream experience. But be careful…the price of 3 scoops might break the bank.
